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Bearded Dragons have a varied diet that consists of insects and vegetables. The younger they are the more protein they need and as they get older they transition to more vegetables.

BABIES (0-4 months)

need 80% insects and 20% vegetables. They should also eat up to 3-5 times per day! A good rule of thumb is give them as many worms as they can eat in 10 minutes during each feeding and then provide them a daily fresh salad.

JUVENILES (5-12 months)

need 70% insects and 30% vegetables. They eat about 3 times per day. Again, give them their fill of worms within 10 minutes for each feeding plus provide a daily fresh salad.

ADULTS (18+ months)

eat 80% vegetables once per day. ONCE EVERY DAY OR TWO you give them as many worms as they can eat in a 10 minute period PLUS one or two fresh salads daily depending on their appetite. Their appetite will vary.

ALWAYS REMEMBER CALCIUM POWDER!

FRUIT should only be given ONCE A WEEK or less as a treat!

Best Insects: 

DUBIA ROACHES, CRICKETS, PHOENIX WORMS, SUPERWORMS, HORN WORMS, WAX WORMS, MEALWORMS (in that order). Mealworms are harder for beardies to digest, especially young beardies. Dubia roaches are the highest in protein, calcium, and are easiest to care for as feeders.

We purchase our feeders from breeders and vendors at a local monthly reptile show. You can get some feeders at your local pet store, order online, or find a local vendor.

Best Vegetables:

COLLARD GREENS, KALE, MUSTARD GREENS, TURNIP GREENS, RAW BELL PEPPERS, BUTTERNUT SQUASH, CARROTS, CUCUMBER (PEELED), ENDIVE, OKRA (RAW), SPAGHETTI SQUASH, PUMPKIN, PARSNIPS

All of these can be found at your local grocery store

NEVER FEED YOUR BEARDIES:

DAIRY PRODUCTS, AVOCADO, MEAT, WILD INSECTS, SPINACH, LETTUCE (loose leaf and iceberg), ONION 

FEEDING TIPS

• Offer fresh water daily.
• Clean out any uneaten food at the end of each day.
• Feed your dragon live insects in a designated bin to avoid feeders escaping in the terrarium. 
• Make sure all insects and pieces of fruit and veggies are no bigger than the space between your dragon’s eyes. This helps minimize a risk of choking or gut impaction. 
• For optimal nutrition and to help prevent metabolic bone disease, dust insects with calcium powder. Put them in a baggie and shake it up before serving. You can also sprinkle calcium on your bearded dragon’s salads.

Rule #1- DO NOT BUY STARTER TANK KITS FROM PET STORES. These are not well put together and there are better supplies out there.

SUBSTRATE/FLOORING MATERIAL

This is a widely debated topic and it seems that not much is widely agreed upon. A common "safe" loose substrate is a mixture of play sand and organic soil to match their natural habitat but many people recommend substrate that is not loose such as SLATE TILE, CERAMIC TILE, PLASTIC REPTILE FLOORING, or PAPER TOWELS

They must have a strong reliable UVB lighting 

• Heating 

Bearded dragons need a temperature gradient

• Lighting

It is recommended bearded dragons get 12 hours of UVB and a day and night cycle.

Basking side surface temp- 108-113

Cool side surface temperature- 77-85

Air temperature- 72-99

Nighttime - 55-75

Bearded Dragons have very unique personalities and needs and may let you know in different ways. Some things to watch for are the color of their skin, are they dark or light, whether they are eating properly

• Pangea, Zoomed crested gecko diet, Repashy 

These are the most convenient to feed your gecko. It is roughly 1 part powder to 2 parts water.

• Crickets or roaches 

The insects you feed should be no larger than the distance from the gecko’s nose to its eyes.

• Calcium and D3

All feeder insects should be dusted with a good calcium powder and vitamin D3. 

DISCLAIMER

THERE IS A DEBATE ON IF MEALWORMS OR SUPERWORMS ARE SAFE TO FEED. 

• Water

Crested geckos typically drink water droplets from the sides of their enclosure and any leaves or plants. It is important to mist your geckos daily. 

HABITAT

Crested geckos are Arboreal 

• 18 x 18 x 24

** Height is more important than length

• Wood branches, bendy vines, fake plants, etc

SUBSTRATE

• zoo med eco earth 
• Paper towels

Covering soil with leaf litter and moss are beneficial for maintaining consistent moisture levels for plant growth and a healthy colony of isopods/ springtails 

AVOID

• sand
• Wood chips
• Walnut husk

It can be very harmful for a crested gecko to ingest large quantities of substrate. 

• maintained between 70 and 78 degrees

In most situations room temperature is adequate for crested geckos.

• they do require a moderate humidity

This can be accomplished by misting the enclosure twice a day

• UVB is not necessary

However, UVB can help the gecko and any live plants within the enclosure

• Aggressive cage mates
• Punching or squeezing their tails

Tail loss is a normal defense mechanism and is not a medical emergency. The gecko will recover quickly and does not require special care. 

Ball pythons can live up to 30 years and adults average 4-5 feet

ENCLOSURE

Recommended is a 4’ x 2’ x 2’

• Glass( reptile zoo)
• PVC ( Dubai.com, zen habitats)

SUBSTRATE

• Reptichip
• DIY tropical mix
• Zoomed reptisoil
• Zoomed eco earth 

• rats 

**Recommend frozen/ thawed, live rodents have been known to injure snakes. If you prefer live keep an eye on the interaction between your snake and the rat and remove after 15-30 minutes if not eaten.

• Mice
• Reptilinks 

** ball pythons are known to fast during the cooler months. As long as your snake isn’t losing weight and appears healthy, don’t freak out. 

“ CLUTTER IT UP”

• heavy water dish ( possibly ceramic) they will knock it over!
• Recommended at least 2 hides. One for the cool side and one for the warm
• Enrichment items: Braches, Plants, cork logs, etc. 
• Artificial foliage ( most live plants are too fragile for a heavy bodied snake)
• Recommended to add a background that covers all 3 sides of the enclosure.

HEAT ELEMENT

• Heat lamp

**It is not recommended to use the red-tinted bulb known as an “infrared” lamp

• Heating pad

**Use a thermostat when using a heating pad!

• Basking surface temperature : 95-104 F
• Warm hide temperature : 86-90F
• Cool hide temperature : 72-80F
• Nighttime temperature : 70-78F

!! Do not use heat rocks !!

HUMIDITY

• 60-80% during the day and 80-100% at night. 

** Proper humidity can prevent respiratory infections and bad sheds.